許多人認為卡爾瓦多斯已經過時了，重慶紅酒批發中心重慶賣紅酒的地方波特葡萄酒及波本威士忌的甜味 為了證明這一觀點并不正確，我們盡量找來了中國市場上現有的全部卡爾瓦多斯品牌這七瓶單品涵蓋了各個種類，從精純到XO，其中一瓶可謂個性十足，既有波特葡萄酒及波本威士忌的甜味，又有蘋果西打的酸味及其他風味調酒潛力無限。 Shaking off rumours of calvados as an outmoded sip, we rounded up all the calvados brands we could lay our hands on in China – seven bottles, across the categories, ranging from Fine to XO – and discovered a spirit with a personality expressing everything from port wine and bourbon sweetness to tart apple cider. A very mixable spirit with untapped potential. 非常感謝參加了本期品酒會的各位調酒師，也要感謝布列塔尼餐廳La Creperie的Jacques Commault為我們提供了場地（上海徐匯區桃江路1號 | 0215465 9055）并且向我們展示了如何用卡爾瓦多斯制作特色火焰可麗餅。 A big thanks to the bartenders who joined and to Jacques Commault for hosting us at his Bretagne restaurant La Creperie (1 Taojiang Lu, Xuhui, Shanghai | 021 5465 9055) – and for demonstrating calvados in cooking with the house crepe flambe.

The bottles | 參評酒一覽 1. Berneroy, AOC Calvados, VSOP | 貝納羅VSOP，法定產區卡爾瓦多斯 我們品鑒的第一款卡爾瓦多斯是貝納羅VSOP。它先將蘋果天然發酵至少四周，直至酒精度達到5-6度。隨后進行單次塔式蒸餾，以法國橡木舊桶陳釀至少四年，這樣才有資格被稱為VSOP。它呈琥珀色，散發著淡淡的果香，不過相較而言，木桶內酵母帶來的較甜特質占據了上風，蘋果香氣則退居其次。品酒團都聞到了香草和橡木氣息。沈鑫說有花香，葛效淵說有“葡萄干、少許太妃糖和酸蘋果”氣息，而Colin認為“蘋果香氣不像想象中那么濃”，更多的是干果氣息，而非新鮮水果氣息。口感略干：葛效淵品出“成熟蘋果和單寧”，David品出了橡木和“燒過的香草”。Dan認為余味不夠柔和，但蘇念慈表示它的余味“順滑”、“有木頭味”。 酒精度：40度 供應商：遠流貿易（021 6248 8498） 價格：200-299元 First up is a VSOP calvados from Berneroy, made with apples naturally fermented to dryness over a minimum of four weeks until reaching five to six per cent abv. It’s distilled once in a column still and then aged exclusively in used French oak barrels for a minimum of four years, qualifying it as VSOP. Amber in the glass, the nose showed subdued fruit, though apple took a backseat to sweeter notes induced by the years in the barrel. Vanilla and oak on the nose, agreed the panel. Sean found floral aromas; “raisins, hints of toffee and sour apple”, said Anthony; though “less apple than expected”, Colin thought, with more dried than fresh fruit. A slightly dry palate: “ripe apple and tannins”, found Anthony, “while David detected oak and “burnt vanilla”. A bit scratchy on the finish for Dan, but Blacky found it finished “smooth” and “woody”. Abv: 40 per cent Available fro

m: Yuanliu (021 6248 8498) Price: ￥200-299 2. Chateau du Breuil, AOC

Calvados Pays d’Auge, Fine | 重慶賣紅酒的地方 布勒伊酒堡（精純級），奧日法定產區卡爾瓦多斯 這款酒產自奧日地區，以天然發酵的西打為原料。蒸餾過程在初冬和來年6月30日之間進行，橡木桶陳釀至少兩年。它呈香檳色，品酒團一致認為果香很明顯。“香氣強烈濃郁。”馬兆群說。“西打和酸蘋果香氣。”Colin說。Dan聞到了太妃糖、奶油糖果和“阿月渾子”。David說是“槐花蜂蜜、薰衣草和較年輕的蘋果”，葛效淵補充說有麝香般的“動物體味”。品味時，Dan說有香草和黑糖味，Colin說有蜂蜜、蘋果、少許檸檬和木頭味，和“少許煙熏般的風味”。沈鑫品出了花香味，以及辛辣和苦杏的余味。葛效淵表示，把它當做杰克玫瑰的基酒應該效果不錯。 酒精度：40度 供應商：CWS（021 6231 3484） 價格：100-199元 Produced in the Pays d’Auge area, the spirit is distilled from cider made through natural fermentation. Distillation takes place between the beginning of winter and June 30 the following year. It is aged in oak for a minimum of two years. The colour featured champagne hues and fruit was prominent in the aroma, the panel agreed. “Strong and intense on the nose,” said Rain; “cider and acidic apples”, found Colin. Dan picked up toffee, butterscotch and “pistachio”. “Acacia honey”, “lavender” and “younger apple coming through”, said David, while Anthony added musky “animal body odour” to the description. On the palate, Dan found vanilla and dark sugar; honey, apple, some lemon and wood, “almost slightly smoky”, Colin thought. Floral, with a spicy finish and some apricot in the finish, for Sean. A good base for a Jack Rose perhaps, suggested Anthony. Abv: 40 per cent Available from: CWS (021 6231 3484) Price: ￥100-199